For lots of guys, watches are like wine: the perceived
learning curve intimidates many who assume you can’t get anything good
for a reasonable price. That’s not the case, however, timepiece-wise; in
fact when just starting out in the horological universe it’s a good
idea to begin with something relatively modest and acquaint yourself
with the way it wears, works, looks and feels, as a prelude to acquiring
a piece you’ll wear for the rest of your life.
Which is not to say your starter watch won’t be a keeper;
but it will most likely become your secondary timepiece, worn on more
casual occasions, but nonetheless a steady companion. And it may be
years before you see the need to upgrade if you choose wisely. Perhaps
you’ll pass it along to your son. The threshold for getting into a
decent quality watch, one we’d consider to be professional grade, hovers
around the $500 mark, which is where we’ve set the bar for this
rundown.
At this price you can and should go for real watch brands
as opposed to fashion brands who are merely branding cheap timepieces
usually made in China. Watchmakers like Bulova, Tissot, Alpina and
Hamilton, all founded in the 1800s, have passed the hundred-year mark
and withstood the test of time, so to speak, and are well worth
investing in. Look for deals on discontinued models on Amazon, where
sale prices can be 40% off or more, and you can end up scoring a real
deal.
The man who overspends before he knows the worth of what
he’s buying does nobody any favors, least of all himself. And not
wearing a watch because you’re waiting to afford something expensive is a
foolish economy, leaving you bereft and bare-wristed. Buy wisely and
you won’t be wasting money on a starter model; take good care of it and
there will even be some residual resale value to put towards your next
purchase.
Bulova Special Edition Moonwatch
Bulova, founded in New York in 1875, has strong ties to space exploration. A Bulova worn by astronaut Dave Scott during the Apollo 15 mission in 1971 sold for $1.6 million in 2015. This stunning re-issue edition is a total steal, and has the look and feel of a much more expensive piece, with some impressive history to it. The high frequency quartz movement allows for accuracy that is good within seconds per year. The low price on this beauty is almost unbelievable.
Another reason not to pay more than $500 for a watch is the
amount of punishment you plan to dole out. If you work with your hands
or just don’t want to worry too much about damaging an expensive
timepiece, it’s better to buy something that won’t break the bank if it
ends up needing to be replaced sooner rather than later. That said it’s
better just to take the watch off if there’s any danger of it getting
damaged.
Don’t think of it as a “cheap” watch or something you’re
compromising on however; do the research (actually we did it for you),
spend as much as you possibly can and take satisfaction in something
that’s worth more than you paid for it. There’s no shame in shopping
around or wearing a less expensive watch than the loudmouthed guy in the
next cubicle who probably still owes money on his.
Price should in any case be a secondary consideration when
buying a watch. Look for a design that pleases you, in a size you’re
comfortable with, that has the functions you want, and then consider
what’s it’s worth. Perhaps you prefer a metal bracelet to a leather strap,
but be aware that for a minimal extra investment you can get both.
Nylon straps available in a host of colors are another way to change up
the look of your watch.
Tissot V 8 Stainless Steel Chronograph
Tissot is a very well-respected second tier Swiss watch brand, founded in Le Locle in 1853 and best known for a wide range of sports models. This handsome chronograph is water resistant to 100 m (330 ft) and won’t break the bank. Most people will assume you paid a lot more. Chronographs are a good buy in general as they offer more bang for the buck, hold their value better, and look more expensive to boot.Tissot PR 100 Chronograph
A dressier chrono, also from Tissot, the PR 100 comes on a black leather strap with a 41mm case and an extremely accurate Swiss quartz movement. The chronograph function lets you time cool stuff like track laps in your sports car, but is upscale enough to look good with a business suit. Tissot has the look and feel of a much pricier watch; only you need to know the truth. Just the name sounds like a thousand bucks.Victorinox AirBoss Mach 4
Victorinox, founded in 1884, is famous for its Swiss army knives, and its timepieces are just as useful. The AirBoss is modeled on a vintage pilot’s watch, and is quite large at 45mm, which may not be for everyone. Powered by a Swiss-made manual-winding mechanical movement, which many value higher than the usual quartz you find in this price range. It even has a distinctive exhibition-style, transparent case back so you can show it off. The only thing this watch doesn’t have is a can opener.Alpina Horological Smartwatch
Smartwatches are often far less attractive than their mechanical counterparts, but this number from Alpina, founded in Switzerland in 1883, mates high tech to classic looks. It’s really something of a hybrid. The watch monitors sleep patterns and physical activity if you want it to and automatically adjusts to different time zones, interfacing with an app on your smartphone. Even if you lose the data it will automatically restore itself from a backup. Only you have to know how big a geek you are.Citizen Blue Angels World Eco-Drive
This racy chronograph from Japan’s underrated Citizen, about to celebrate its 100th anniversary, is a technological wonder with atomic timekeeping in 5 time zones (North America, the UK, Europe, Japan and China) and automatic time in 26 world cities. It’s named after the Blue Angels, the U.S. Navy’s flight demonstration squadron, and would not look out of place on the wrist of a stunt pilot. The perforated leather band is also super cool. Side note: Citizen's Eco-Drive technology harnesses the power of light – from any natural or artificial light source – and converts it into energy, which is stored in a permanently rechargeable solar cell, and runs literally forever.Momentum Titanium Vortec GMT
This sizable 44mm watch on a rubberized strap has a GMT function, meaning it can keep track of two different timezones, especially useful for world travelers. Water resistant to 330 feet, it also has an alarm function to help you stay alert. This piece also has a titanium case, which is both lighter and stronger than stainless steel. Momentum might not be a big brand name but it has resonance for connoisseurs, and titanium watches usually cost a lot more; getting one for this price is unheard of. Luminescent markers mean you can read the time in the dark.Glycine Kriegs Marine Manual Wind
Glycine, founded in 1914, is another second-tier Swiss watch brand that delivers excellent value for money. This model has vintage military looks and is oversized at 48mm, so make sure your wrist can handle it. It also has a coveted manual wind movement for the watch snobs among us. We firmly believe that if you’re at all mechanically-minded, once you’ve experienced a manual wind movement you’ll never want a quartz again. The only thing worse would be digital.Hamilton Khaki Field Watch
Hamilton, founded in Pennsylvania in 1892, belies the common belief that only Swiss watches are worth investing in. The field watch is a classic design that may not be dressy enough for the opera but can handle most situations with aplomb. It’s an American style statement that goes perfectly with your L.L. Bean and Filson gear, and has been widely imitated though usually without concomitant quality. The 38mm size is fairly uniformly flattering. The automatic movement is usually found on pricier pieces.
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